Business & Tech

Bites Nearby: Greek Hospitality at Santorini Taverna

The Greek restaurant on Central Rd. in Fort Lee, open only a couple of years, is fast becoming a neighborhood fixture, offering warm service, a luxurious atmosphere and of course great food.

Santorini Taverna is a relative newcomer to the Fort Lee area, having opened scarcely two years ago, but its combination of authentic, interesting food and warm, attentive service should make it a favorite in the future. During its short run I've already heard tell of people walking across the George Washington Bridge from Washington Heights to eat here.

I first came to when the weather was warmer and found its owner entertaining outside on the restaurant's porch. Though I was there just to take a couple of photos and survey the place, Angelo sat me down and served me some hot tea; we chatted about Fort Lee and what makes his place different from others in the neighborhood. I saw right away that personal touch that sets it apart.

One feature Angelo emphasizes is that outdoor seating area, which allows diners to take in fresh air while eating and drinking—a very Greek experience. He says many of his patrons love the fresh seafood, of which the taverna always has plenty, with specials that change regularly.

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The rest of the restaurant, decorated with Mediterranean scenes on the walls and a mural of Greek gods on the ceiling, made up for not being able to sit on the porch on my second, more recent visit. In front there is a full bar, too, which looked like a comfortable place to sit and have cocktails.

I have heard the broiled octopus is a must-try, but I was curious about the Avgolemono soup, so I chose that as a starter. Perfect for the cold afternoon I had taken shelter from, as well as a great complement to the garlic bread that came to the table first, the soup was a cloudy, fatty broth with chunks of tender chicken floating in it along with carrot, orzo and a lot of lemon. I wasn't coming down with a cold, but the next time I am I will return here to get another bowl.

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As a main course I had one of the day's specials, a hearty shrimp casserole. The entrée was beautiful both to see and taste: gigantic broiled shrimp radiated from a stuffed tomato, which was surrounded by a moat of delicate tomato gravy and rice, the sauce spiked with scallion and crumbled feta. My misgivings at not having ordered one of the other specials, a whole bronzino, melted away as I finished my order, washing the casserole down with a nice glass of house Malbec. Still, I realized I wanted to return to eat other things; on my first visit, Angelo had told me about the specialty lamb cooked in a clay pot, and seeing it on the menu had jogged my memory. In fact, there were several items there that I now wanted to try—sea scallops, pork chops, pan-fried lamb liver— described simply but clearly. If my meal was any indication, they would also be prepared simply and clearly, using fresh ingredients and not too many, for the charm of Greek cuisine lies in this strategy.

Prices at Santorini are moderate considering the quality, with most entrees under $25 and many appetizers under $10.

As I listened to a bouzouki cover of "Stairway To Heaven," I let my server coax me into having an espresso and a piece of hot baklava.

Santorini Taverna is located at 2020 Central Rd. in Fort Lee. They are open daily from Noon to 11 p.m. Call 201-947-2055 or visit them online.


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